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What is picture frame foam backing board and what thickness is best?

what is picture frame foam backing board and what thickness is best?

 

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You might want to throw pool balls at me for shooting on film this late in the profession but that digital crap is for rookies (but I use it when deadlines press).  Nothing beats a printable negative, IMHO.  Gawd, I hate making internegs. 

You will find fifteen types, all different and for different applications. You might want to look into a registration mark press (or rotary cutter) if you use smooth-side film as I do.  You have to ask for it, and sometimes, the counter guy will have to be sure you know what you are talking about.  Persist: it is worth it.  It is a pro trick and lets us get that priceless extra 3-4 shots per spool. 

Cellulose fiber: (acid-base as you wish to load it).  It comes in 1/16, 1/8/ 1/4 and 3/8 thicknesses.  Kodak cellulose has a pH band on the side to stop all guesswork in your printing: 7.0 is perfect for most work.  6.8 if you want sepia, and 8.1-8.3 if you want "tintype" or "deguerrotype" imitations.

Soft Olefin: .003 -- .009 again Kodak is the best, but Konika and Bosch make good soft olefin too.  Kodak's pH band is good, but Konika and Bosch, use a calibrated pH meter in your final rinse.

Hard Olefin: basically the same as soft except thickness and texture.  .090 -- .1000 are the two most frequent backers.  I like Kodak, if I'm enlarging from C-41 (35mm). 

PTFE: cheaper than Olefin but much less friendly to use.  It comes clear, white translucent, white opaque, black opaque, and sepia.  You will see that more in Indonesia than America, because we don't go all that much for sepia.

Mylar: Kits will sell you pre-packaged mylar sheets but it is drafting media and you can cut your own for 1/5 the price.  Get the double-sided if you want photos and use clear if you want transparencies.

Glass: save your money and cut ordinary single-strength float glass rather than pay the markup they charge you at Cameras.com and Kits. 

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